Chrysanthemum Show - Centennial Greenhouse Conservatory

There is nothing that really excites me about autumn transitioning into winter. It's usually a dull, stormy time of season - when trees strip bare of leaves and I dreadingly pull out long-johns from my dresser.  However, late October brings around the annual late autumn Chrysanthemum Show at Centennial Greenhouse and Conservatory. A little oasis, tucked in in the heart of Etobicoke (Toronto).

Here, I am fortunate to witness the painstaking work and effort put into growing these fantastic Japanese Chrysanthemums from cuttings and seed. Credit goes to: Stanley Roszak who grew the chrysanthemums; Donna and Mertyl who helped with the display. They all work as growers at Centennial Greenhouses and are colleagues of mine. They deserve much praise for their efforts. Well done!  It looks amazing!

A little cute fella, welcoming you to the show. :)

This one is by far my favourite. Spanning 6 inches across.

Not completely unfurled yet...it was at least the size of a dinner plate!

Wish my camera would of captured this better. 3 concentric hearts are joined together. Stan designed this himself. Wonderful!

 
The show runs from October 27, 2012 - November 25, 2012! Please go and see the flowers for yourself!

(Located: Off Rathburn, 151 Elmcrest Road. Open free to the Public)

Here is web information pertaining to other events and what grows under glass at Centennial Greenhouse.

Perennial Late Bloomers

Aside from the ordinary Chrysanthemum and Sedum - here are a few of my favourite perennial "late bloomers" that give flower in the midst of late autumn - tolerating light frosts and cooler day-time temperatures.

Eupatorium rugosum "Chocolate"

Eupatorium rugosum "Chocolate" (Chocolate Boneset Joe Pie Weed) found here in my garden - is one of my fav's. Its white flowers just brighten my shaded fence-line. Growing in a fair amount of shade, it's "chocolate" foliage is more bronze than burgundy - it's hard not to notice its lovely white wispy flowers contrasting against deep bronze leaves when most perennials are starting to go dormant.

Nipponanthemum nipponicum

Nipponanthemum nipponicum (Nippon Daisy) rounds the autumn off with an extraordinary daisy display. Its dense foliage and habit acts much like a shrub. Standing 3 to 4 feet in height, it commands attention. Foliage is sturdy, and evergreen in a sense - tolerating several frosts before it begins to wilt. In the winter, its foliage turns a bronze-brown and is considered an evergreen in warmer zonal areas. Flowers have a 3-4 inch span. Buds are sometimes an inch in diameter.

Tricyrtus hirta

 

 

Tricyrtus hirta (Toad Lily): part of the Lily family, but resembling an orchid, the Toad Lily's step ladder leaves and stems stay unnoticed until late September, when flower buds emerge. Standing near 3 feet when about to bloom, it's a great addition to the perennial border.

Anemone hupehensis var. japonica

Anemone hupehensis var. japonica (Japanese Anemone) This has to be my ultimate favourite. It's been in flower since late August and keeps going. Holding its flower stems above deep green, mounding foliage. Great as a cut flower. I love how it hints of white snowy days coming down the pike. Love, love, love!

Extending Dianthus x barbatus chinensis Bloom

Photo from Ball Seed Company

I love Dianthus x barbatus (chinensis). It is usually grown and sold as an annual form of Dianthus, but it has perennial (biennial) longevity with proper care.

In its first season, you enjoy endless bloom from planting til frost is common. Overwintering is typical, with a robust bloom in early summer. Yet, once June rolls around - they look spent like this:


Gather the spent flower stalks and cut back about 2-3 inches off the top, leaving about 4-5 inches of green growth.

This removes the seed heads and stalks, forcing new growth from the leafy area beneath.

Hedge hog hair-cut!

This cut will initiate new growth, which will bear new flowers in a couple of weeks. I used an all purpose water soluble fertilizer, just to give it that extra boost.


It may look severe, but it will extend the bloom until frost.

I have overwintered Dianthus x barbatus for up to 4 years by doing this each year. After that amount of time, it generally fizzles out and I replant a new lot.

Edible Flowers

I love salads and get a kick out of decorating them with edible flowers. Now that spring is here, I look forward to foraging for flowers. These edible flowers are great for cake-top decorating too.


These are the ones I have tried and will plant a few to harvest throughout the growing season:

Peony petals

Yucca filamentosa "Adam's Needle"

Petals of flowers only on Yucca

Rocket Arugula

• Viola (not pansies, but the perennial, self seeding Viola)
• Nasturtium
• Hosta Flowers (without stamen and anthers)
• Rocket Arugula (Eruca sativa)
• Lavender
• Basil flowers
• Mint flowers
• Pinks - Dianthus

  

  Chives

• Chive and Onion flowers
• Squash and Zuchinni (Corchets)
• Sugar Snap Sweet Pea
• Yucca filamentosa (petals only)
• Borage 
• Peony petals

My favourites are underlined.

Here are other online sources of edible flowers .

Canada Blooms 2012

Oh Canada! Great use for Kalachoe's eh? :-P

Canada Blooms this year was a joint venture with the National Home Show.  It's been a few years since I attended Canada Blooms, as I have felt many of the garden trends and designs are unrealistic to maintain, and the average home owner can't afford such extravagance. It used to bother me to see spring/summer forced material blooming all at once and to see plant material suffer. But I can see how it drives the garden economy and gives people a joy to see spring colours in full show. So, I decided to give it a go.

The Canada Blooms portion of the show was a lot smaller and more concentrated. Overall it was a great show, a little less showy than years past and the market place was smaller than I remember. However, the National Home Show section was a nice draw once we were done with the Blooms portion.

Like a bone-head, I forgot to check my camera to see if I remembered the memory card. Forgive my photos, as they are from my camera phone.  Sorry.

Here are some of the highlights I chose:

I'm quite partial to interesting floral designs. Aren't these sweet?







Orchids, sphagnum moss, Kermit Mums, Aspidistra leaves.

Peace on Earth

I thought this one was quite clever. Called "Peace on Earth". This photo does not capture it at all. The wood use is all drift wood, weathered by water. It must of taken hours to put together and years to collect. I really think it was done well.

The next photos are of the Green Zone section. I enjoyed this most. Living walls, roof top gardening, and interesting containers used to grow veggies.

This is the roof top garden display.. I really like the concept, but how realistic it is to maintain it in this patterning is uncertain. It certainly points to a great trend and environmental focus.

Living salad bar. So cool. This was a part of the Food Share section. Lettuce and sprouts were in growing mediums, with grow lights above. Harvest as you make dinner.

Sorry, I tried a close up. Sprouts growing in these cool clay pellet medium.

Humber College's Landscape Design display featured a more earthy, Urban Homestead theme. Loved it. This living wall, herb and veggie boxes, are quite fun. Tilted to reach appropriate sun levels. I really thought it was a great method to screen in privacy and provide yummy nibbles. Their sustainable features are an example to where gardening trends need to go. I am glad to see my former alumni heading this direction.

Plant World's Display

I feel bad as my camera cut off the other container, but a colleague of mine put these together, and I think they may have not been the showiest, but they certainly have unique elements that could realistically be situated in your own backyard. Well done Edward!



It was a fun evening. Parking is free after 5pm, which I took advantage of. Cheers to the Bloom display designers and organizers.

My Amaryllis Finished Blooming, So Now What?

Whatever you do, don't throw out your Amaryllis that finished blooming!

One of the wonderful attributes of the Amaryllis is its re-blooming ability. With a little extra care and patience, one can enjoy its bloom again and again.

Since I posted the progression of my Amaryllis since December, I've placed it in a cool spot, nearest my window. The cooler temps have aided in its longevity. (Not too cool, as a frosty window can be too cold) I've been able to enjoy it's flowering for over 3 weeks now. I've also been careful not to get the bulb wet when I've watered and to also water only when the soil around the bulb is dry. Be sure to not to forget to water, as the flowers will stay hydrated and will last longer when you do.

It's sad to see no colour and it's happy blooms gone, but now is the time to bring life back to the bulb.

2 sets of blooms, removing one set

Once one set of blooms started to wither, I didn't wait to see them drop. I simply pinched the flower stalk back to just an inch above the bulb and let the other two blooms remain. I pinched them off using my thumb-nail rather than using my secateurs.  I find this way I wouldn't of damaged the other blooms. Just watch the stamens and anthers dusted with yellow pollen, they are full of it and it will stick; staining your clothes and furniture.

Remaining two blooms faded :(

About a week later, the remaining two blooms also withered.




I then removed them with my secateurs.

Cutting with my handy Felco's

Be careful handling the removed blooms, red flowers especially give off staining colour as the bloom gets mushy in parts as it withers. I like to remove them first, and then the stock, so that I don't get pollen everywhere.

Some folks recommend leaving the flower stock until it goes yellow and limp. I cut mine off. Perhaps I am impatient, or not - I just find it's simpler since the bulb does not require to hydrate the stalk and reduce wasted energy until it withers away.

Try real hard not to damage the leaves when removing the stalk. I used my sharp secuteers to do this, which makes a swift cut.

If you use a knife, cut away from the leaves. Energy returns back into the bulb when the leaves are healthy and robust.

Watch when cutting! Water will drain from the stock and can spill out. I just let all that water drain back into the pot.

As soon as you've removed the flower stalk, place the Amaryllis into a bright area. The leaves will begin to thicken and perhaps gain a greener hue because of the light. South facing is best. You can't give too much light. You want to bulk up the leaves, so that the bulb grows in diametre.

Every watering, I have been using Schultz's All Purpose plant food (7-7-7). Although, to increase flower production (bulb embryo inside) it would be best to use fertilizer with a high middle number, which encourages blooms.

I plan on bringing it outside to let it flourish once the threat of frost is gone. The last time I did this, several outer leaves wilted and became yellow. I simple removed them and let the newer leaves emerge from the centre. 

Here is my post what to do to - the way to store and start the process all over again.