Removing Lily Flower Anthers To Lengthen Bloom Time

There are two main reasons to remove the pollen covered parts from a Lily flower.

Removing the small bean like anthers before they are covered in pollen will:
1.) prevent getting pollen everywhere which can stain both inside the flower and cloth.
2.) lengthen the bloom time of the flower.

Removing the pollen source will inhibit pollination and will lengthen flowering duration.

Lily flowers have various structural parts. Petals, which give the trumpet flower shape and encase inside male and female parts. It's important to know the difference.

Male: 6 stamens (thin filaments) and anthers which carry the pollen.
Female: The long stigma, style and ovary.

The sticky, fleshy stigma. In pollination, it accepts the pollen and fertilizes the ovary down the long style tube which connect them together.

In this photo, the filaments have had the anthers removed.

Once pollinated, an embryonic seed will develop at the base of the flower.

The trick to doing this is to remove the anthers at the end of long filaments inside the flower before they release the yellow powdery pollen.

Once the flower begins to open, gently remove the anthers either with your fingers, or better yet, with a pair of tweezers like above. The trick is not to get any pollen on the the petals nor bruise any of the petals trying to reach the anthers. Stigma's have a sticky coating to make the pollen adhere. Do handle with care. At this stage the anthers are long and quite fleshy. They have no pollen. Although, within hours they begin to change and release their intended purpose.

Here, 6 anthers are removed and you can clearly see they have no powdery pollen residue.

In my experience, the flowers last several days longer with this removal.

Don't worry, if the anthers bobble about and are full of pollen, it's a bit late but still doable.

Carefully wrap your fingers around the anthers, making sure you protect the stigma below and tease away gently before pollen is dispersed.  The trick is not to get any on the sticky stigma.

Do this as well with amaryllis and any other lily. Most florists and garden centres do this for you, but if you buy potted plants or cut flowers which are in bud, it'll be up to you to achieve a lengthier bloom time with this trick once the flowers open.
Have a go!

Amaryllis Blooming in Spring - Happy Easter!

I experimented with my Amaryllis this winter. As always, I re-potted it last November, whilst it was dormant.

 It leafed up, and flowered beautifully right around the Christmas season, but this time I did something different.

I let it be.

I lost two leaves in January, but two stayed green and grew quite in length without wilting and dying back. I left them, while they weigh heavily down and then propped them up by a window. Each watering, I added water soluble 7 7 7 fertilizer and let it dry between feedings. The bulb grew large, so I kept the leaves to give the bulb energy.

Lo'and behold, this is the result. New leaves and a flower bud...emerging in late March.

You can see the two longer leaves to the left are the originals from December. Three newer leaves were emerging last week when I had a hunch it was to re-bloom.

The bulb became large. Wanting to up-size the pot a bit, the bulb wouldn't budge without some force, which would either damage the leaves or the roots. So I left it.

Yay!

I decided to remove last year's leaves and allow the plant to straighten.

I gather since it's spring, I have less light coming through the window, making the leaves and flower stalk stretched quite a bit.

Who says Amaryllis can only be enjoyed during Christmas? This one has bloomed in time for Easter. How fitting. Only three blooms, yet fully representing the Trinity on Easter. Fits in well with my Easter Lily, no?  :)  Happy Easter!

If I can manage it, I will try and do it again. Perhaps, it will flower 3 times in a year.