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| Captured this Euphorbia polychroma in the evening, with some sunset twilight. Turned the grey-green foliage to blue. Every garden should have this plant. |
Monday, July 14, 2014
Photo of the Month - July 2014
Wednesday, July 09, 2014
Perennial Plants For Shade - Part 2
Gee, I can see myself making several parts to this sort of post. There are so many choices out there. Not the run of the mill either. Choices like these:
3 post here...
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| Here is a close up of the flower cluster. |
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| Epimedium davidii, or Bishop's Hat. Fabulous little columbine like flowers in late May, with semi evergreen foliage which.... |
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| ...turn lovely shades of reds and bronzes with frost. |
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| Tricyrtis - Toad Lily has long lily stems bearing orchid-like flowers late in season (August-September). Real visual interest against evergreens or autumn changing foliage. |
3 post here...
Labels:
Alchemilla molis,
Anemone x hybrida "Honorine Jobert",
Chiastophyllum oppositifolium "Cotyledon",
Epimedium davidii,
gardening blog toronto ontario canada,
Matteuccia struthiopteris,
perennials,
Tiarella,
Tricyrtis,
Viola cornuta "Bowles Black"
Tuesday, July 08, 2014
Clematis Wilt - Phoma clematidina
Clematis are some of the most beautiful flowering vines available to the avid gardener. However, several cultivars are prone to clematis wilt.
This newly transplanted clematis (moved this past spring) has shown signs of the wilt disease.
Clematis wilt a few years ago was known as Ascochyta clematidina, but now it is classified under Phoma clematidina. A fungus which in wet weather, multiply by spores, creating blotchy lesions and eventually browning of leaves - making the plant wilt.
The best route of action, is to cut back (as far back to the ground level) any stems and leaves that are infected. Do not compost the remnants. Destroy or remove. Re-situate the plant, if it is prone to dampness (frequent foliage contact with water).
While recovering, it's best not to let the remaining foliage get overly wet. You can't help the rain, but any additional waterings should avoid the foliage getting wet.
This newly transplanted clematis (moved this past spring) has shown signs of the wilt disease.
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| Rather a young plant, we waited for the flower buds to unfurl, but with the heavy rains we've had and humidity, the buds never got large enough to flower. |
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| On closer inspection, the flowers were wilted and lost some colour. |
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| The stem bearing the flowers at the base had the typical Clematis Wilt brown leaves. |
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| Even though the leaves at the tip of the stem are green, the base leaves are all like this. |
The best route of action, is to cut back (as far back to the ground level) any stems and leaves that are infected. Do not compost the remnants. Destroy or remove. Re-situate the plant, if it is prone to dampness (frequent foliage contact with water).
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| Cut right back to ground level. No sense in letting any remaining leaves to infect other healthy ones. |
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| This clematis was planted in a fair bit of clay soil. Adding compost and humus rich soil will help boost it back to health. |
While recovering, it's best not to let the remaining foliage get overly wet. You can't help the rain, but any additional waterings should avoid the foliage getting wet.
Sunday, July 06, 2014
Fabulous Bird Bath - Renzo Cattoni
Gardeners know that birds are crucial to promoting a balance between insect populations and healthy plant life. Helping to attract birds to a garden is key. Adding just any old bird bath is the challenge. Why not this one?
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| The detail is what makes me giggle. |
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| We've had the pleasure to see Robins, Baltimore Orioles, Red Winged Black Birds, Yellow Finch, Cardinals...you name it! |
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| Happy bathing birds. Great design, Renzo! |
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