Using Snow To Deter Squirrels Digging Up Bulbs

Nothing gets me more frustrated than seeing tulips dug up by squirrels.

Grrr....

Tender yellow shoots emerging from the ground must be a thrill for the squirrel after a long harsh winter. Although, once they get the taste of the shoots, they continue to dig down and go for the bulb.

What bothers me more...is finding these half eaten green bits all about. At least eat everything if you're going to destroy the plant. Grrrr....

Even though this process is slightly redundant, that heap of snow you have at the side of the drive or in that shaded corner - well, it can be quite useful.

It will buy you a day or two of time, so that the squirrels become frustrated and move on - elsewhere.

Fill in the dug up areas, add some cayenne pepper or netting if you prefer and then cover the tulips with snow. Will give you a chance to come up with other ideas to ward off those pesky squirrels.

Depending on how warm it gets, you'll have to decide whether this process is worth the effort.  At least the slow melting will give the area adequate moisture to help make the tulips pop up more rapidly.

To us, it was...

Snow on top is like leaving a sign that says - take a hike!

I sure don't want to miss out on this display:

(with a Happy Dance, as spring is 3 days away)

Dead-heading Flowering Bulbs After Blooms Fade

I can't say enough about dead-heading bulbs after their flowers have faded.

Depicted below, are tulips that have lasted for years, simply because energy has been able to get back to the bulb below.

It can be tricky, but timing is key. Here, several varieties of tulips (the reds and whites have been around for over 5 years), all flowering at different stages. Get in there, as soon as you see petals falling off and remove those seed pods.

Once petals begin to fade in colour and begin falling off, the plant has already developed a large seed pod.

If you haven't got a pair of pruners handy, at least snapping them off at their base is good enough. I prefer to take the seed head with the stem - cutting back to the base where the stem originates.

With daffodils, hyacinths and other bulbs, the flower petals don't fall off, they just fade and go brown. They each have a bulbous base where seeds are developing. Again, if no pruners are handy, just use your thumb and nip off below the bulge.

It's amazing how much tissue and energy is produced when developing seeds, even before all the petals brown. All that energy needs to go back into the bulb for next year's bloom.

If you're interested in growing bulbs from seed, well...keep them until the seed head browns and dries on the stem.

Forced Bulbs for Indoors

A lovely gift of forced bulbs was given to me three weeks ago and now the blooms have faded. Since this is a perpetual gift opportunity, I want the bulbs to last, so I can plant them outdoors again and enjoy them year after year. One trick to doing this properly, is not allowing the bulb flowers to go to seed.

To make sure energy is returned back to the bulb, any seed producing part of the plant will need to be removed. Allowing the plant to produce seed will take away energy from the bulb (embryo inside) and will reduce flower potential for any recurrent blooms next year.

Dead head the flowers as soon as you see the bloom petals become papery and faded. Pinch back, behind the bulge on the back side of the flower. You can remove the flower stem as well, but it's not necessary. This way, the bulb plant will use its leaves and stem to photosynthesize and re-energize the bulb, not any seeds.

Seed bulge at the back of the flower petals.

 

Cut back near the base of the flower stalk for hyacinths too.

You can leave the flower stalk, but note it will begin to turn yellow faster than the leaves. Be careful of the stamens. They are full of pollen that can stain clothes.

Removing all the yellowing ends and lifeless stems aids in the plant to regain energy back to the bulb.

At this point, you have two options. Plant the bulbs with leaves out into the garden, when the soil is loose enough and friable to dig down to about 4-5 inches. It's best to do this when heavy frosts are over. Or allow the bulbs to grow in the pot on a sunny window sill. The bulb foliage will begin to yellow and die down in both instances.You can fertilize the plants with blood and bone meal, or fertilizer combinations that have a high middle number (phosphorous). Keep them well watered, but not overly moist. Regular watering and feeding will enlarge the flower embryo inside the bulb.

Once all the leaves are yellow, tug on them slightly and when its the right time, they will come free from the bulb beneath the soil. Plant the bulbs outdoors, or store in a cool, dry place for the fall.

However, if you do want the seeds of such bulb plants, then let nature take it's course. Leave the flowers on the plant stalks and let them drop their petals or dry completely.  Harvest the dried flower pods and separate the seeds from the stalk.

Potting Up Amaryllis Bulb

A new year brings new experiences and a new job opportunity for me. I've been so busy! So many changes going on has made me lag behind in blog posts. For that I apologize.

Here is my amaryllis bulb that I saved from last years post. Unfortunately, I grossly delayed in getting it potted up for it to flower during the Christmas season. However, the bulb is still viable and will demonstrate how to get it growing again.

It's best to select a pot that is only an inch or so wider in diameter than the bulb itself. You don't want the bulb to swim in a lot of growing compound.

This Amaryllis bulb has atrophied quite a bit due to my neglect. But it's still firm and has green colouration on the collar and bulb bulge.  Here I removed as much dry skin and dry roots as possible. Removing that prevents rot and it also allows more light to hit the bulb, helping to initiate growth again.

Add just a bit of potting soil at the base of the pot. Here I only added about an inch and a half worth. Tuck roots nicely underneath the bulb. Make sure the bulb stands tall in the pot, so that its collar and the top of the bulb remains exposed.

Add enough potting soil to reach the crest at the top of the bulb and tamp down.

Water enough to just dampen the soil at first. In a day or two, test the soil to see how dry/moist it is and water until just moist to the touch. You just want enough moisture, not too much watering at this stage.

Place in a sunny window and wait about a week before you start to see a leaf emerge. As it begins to grow and send out leaves, water more generously. Remove it from the decorative pot to see if it sits in water. If so, drain excess water so it won't rot out. Enjoy!

Here are other Heidihorticulture posts regarding the care of Amaryllis bulbs.

Amaryllis Update

July 12th

Given the unseasonably HOT start to the summer, my Amaryllis plant is starting to turn already. Usually this starts to happen around August/Sept - so, we'll see how much energy has been returned to the bulb.

Here is my previous post regarding the care of your Amaryllis.

July 17th

July 19th

The time when the plant expires, is when each blade of the Amaryllis foliage will begin to wither and wilt as you can see.  Allow them to completely wilt, so that the leaf can come easily free from the bulb.

July 23rd

Continue to water the Amaryllis still at this stage, but only to keep the bulb from drying out.

It takes a week or two for all the leaves to wither back.

Once all the leaves have withered, remove the bulb from the pot and gently tease the soil away from the roots. Keep as many of the roots as you can.





As you can see, there is a small leaf emerging from the bulb top. It looks familiar, doesn't it? Many amaryllis bulbs look this way in the fall when they are available to purchase. Not to worry, that just means the bulb wants to start off fresh again.







Right now, I am placing the bulb back into the empty pot (composted the used soil) and I will place it in my cool, dark laundry room for 2 weeks or so. I will keep an eye on it throughout the next weeks. Once the roots go limp and brittle, I will remove as many as I can without damaging the bulb. Once I've tidied up the bulb (don't leave too much debris, or mold may develop), I will place it in a bowl of vermiculite to keep it dry. Keeping it in a cool dark place until early November, when I plan to start the process all over again!

Hope yours stores well. What other medium do you store your bulbs in?

Here is my post on how to start the process all over again. Enjoy!

Species Tulips

Autumn displays overpowered with photos of new hybrids and dramatic sized tulips do one thing: encourage impulsive purchases. (At least I am tempted)  However great the impulse is to buy, their repeat bloom is never equaled to the first year. :(

Having a small garden, I can't waste space taken up by Darwin hybrid tulips. I instead I look for species choices.

One I purchased last year and have had much success in my previous garden is: Tulipa clusiana 'Chrysantha'

Their narrow leaves and later blooming time is welcome in my garden. Once their flowers fade, I cut their stems down and I find planting them near another perennial camouflages their fading leaves late May. They stand shorter (10inches) and flower for a lengthier time than many of the Darwin hybrids.

So cheerful!

Species tulips also bloom better over the years. At least in my experience. They also tolerate part shade. Well worth it.

The size of species bulbs are nearly a third of the Darwin hybrids. If you have limited space to plant groupings, this is your best bet!

Darwin is about 2 x's taller.

Here you can see the difference between the Darwin size and this Chysantha. My neighbour kindly gave me 5 bulbs last fall as a gift, and I couldn't say no thanks. I find in small spaces, Darwin's just take over. I will find them a new home later this month. ;)

Life Is Emerging

Blue and White Scilla

The unusual warm weather has put a spring in everyone's step. People are outside, walking, running and enjoying this early gift of spring. It's been really lovely out. However, I can't help but be concerned for fluctuating temps that may come down the pike. Let's hope April's weather is not overly severe. I would hate to see fruit trees bud and a harsh frost kill off tender blooms and other budding shoots.

I planted several bulbs last fall. And I am thrilled, as my neighbours warned me about squirrels digging up all theirs over the years. Most of them are popping up!  I am just not used to the litter layer of leaves and debris I've left. I can see their beneficial use. The earth is quite loose and not compacted from the rain!

In sunnier areas around my neighbourhood I've seen Narcissus (Daffodils) and Crocus already in bloom. It's sooo early! My shadier spot out back is coming along though.

Narcissus " Jetfire Tops "

I figured, the smaller the garden, the smaller the bulb would do the trick. Scilla, Muscari, Species
( "Chrysantha" ) Tulips, and dwarf Narcissus " Jetfire Tops " varieties are mainly multiplying bulbs. Smaller flowers and dwarfer habit, but they increase in number over the years. They won't take too much time to bloom and their foliage won't need to be removed, leaving my perennials to grow in and around them.

I planted them in 3's only because I hope they will multiply in larger batches next season.

Chives

Soon I will be able to cut back and use my chives again. Yay!

Oregano

One bonus of the mild winter is my oregano overwintered and...

Chrysanthemum

 ...my Chrysanthemum.

Here in the greater Toronto Area, it's a hit and miss generally to overwinter Chrysanthemums. So I am grateful.

Strawberry "All Star"

My strawberries have flushed leaves and look twice a large as last year.

Sedum telephium " Autumn Joy "

I was late bringing out some overwintered perennial Sedum "Autumn Joy" from the garage where I stored them. Last October I uprooted and divided them, transplanting into pots too late in the season to get them planted in time for overwintering. I have a garden I tend to and will be planting them there hopefully in a few weeks. Within 3 days of this warm trend, they grew all this pale new growth. I am always so amazed at plants and their will to grow, even in the darkest spots. I'm going to prune them back hard later, I just brought them out to colour up a bit before I do it. I'm just amazed!

Finally I see my roses have started to flush as well.

El Nino, warming trend - whatever it is, I"m going to keep my ear tuned to the weather reports in case winter hits one last blow. Let's hope not.

My Amaryllis Finished Blooming, So Now What?

Whatever you do, don't throw out your Amaryllis that finished blooming!

One of the wonderful attributes of the Amaryllis is its re-blooming ability. With a little extra care and patience, one can enjoy its bloom again and again.

Since I posted the progression of my Amaryllis since December, I've placed it in a cool spot, nearest my window. The cooler temps have aided in its longevity. (Not too cool, as a frosty window can be too cold) I've been able to enjoy it's flowering for over 3 weeks now. I've also been careful not to get the bulb wet when I've watered and to also water only when the soil around the bulb is dry. Be sure to not to forget to water, as the flowers will stay hydrated and will last longer when you do.

It's sad to see no colour and it's happy blooms gone, but now is the time to bring life back to the bulb.

2 sets of blooms, removing one set

Once one set of blooms started to wither, I didn't wait to see them drop. I simply pinched the flower stalk back to just an inch above the bulb and let the other two blooms remain. I pinched them off using my thumb-nail rather than using my secateurs.  I find this way I wouldn't of damaged the other blooms. Just watch the stamens and anthers dusted with yellow pollen, they are full of it and it will stick; staining your clothes and furniture.

Remaining two blooms faded :(

About a week later, the remaining two blooms also withered.




I then removed them with my secateurs.

Cutting with my handy Felco's

Be careful handling the removed blooms, red flowers especially give off staining colour as the bloom gets mushy in parts as it withers. I like to remove them first, and then the stock, so that I don't get pollen everywhere.

Some folks recommend leaving the flower stock until it goes yellow and limp. I cut mine off. Perhaps I am impatient, or not - I just find it's simpler since the bulb does not require to hydrate the stalk and reduce wasted energy until it withers away.

Try real hard not to damage the leaves when removing the stalk. I used my sharp secuteers to do this, which makes a swift cut.

If you use a knife, cut away from the leaves. Energy returns back into the bulb when the leaves are healthy and robust.

Watch when cutting! Water will drain from the stock and can spill out. I just let all that water drain back into the pot.

As soon as you've removed the flower stalk, place the Amaryllis into a bright area. The leaves will begin to thicken and perhaps gain a greener hue because of the light. South facing is best. You can't give too much light. You want to bulk up the leaves, so that the bulb grows in diametre.

Every watering, I have been using Schultz's All Purpose plant food (7-7-7). Although, to increase flower production (bulb embryo inside) it would be best to use fertilizer with a high middle number, which encourages blooms.

I plan on bringing it outside to let it flourish once the threat of frost is gone. The last time I did this, several outer leaves wilted and became yellow. I simple removed them and let the newer leaves emerge from the centre. 

Here is my post what to do to - the way to store and start the process all over again.