Phytophthora Bleeding Canker on Birch

I took a double look at this birch tree the other day, only to have my eyes drawn to red sap ooozing out of the trunk.

After heavy rains, the sappy residue is quite rusty red.

Birch (Betula sp) tend to be riddled with pests and disease in their latter life span. I've seen so many things plaguing birches lately. Including: bronze birch borer, stink bug, leafhopper bugs and aphids attacks. It's unfortunate they get so riddled with pests and disease when they are stressed.

Betula's (birch) are only one of many trees that can be infected by Phytophthora cankers. They start with lesions and wounds, either from insect damage, frost cracks, mechanical damage...etc. Usually the cankers develop after the tree has had a season of stress or drought. This summer has been unusually hot and dry, so this didn't come as a surprise.

Left untreated, the vascular flow of the tree will be inhibited, further stressing and weakening the tree.

The spores that cause the cankers germinate when water from puddles near the base of the tree splash onto wounded areas of the bark. This is evident, since the lesions are so close to the base of the trunk. Phytophthora spores thrive in wet soil conditions, where water puddles. Under this birch, there is a gravel path along one side, and when irrigated, water pools. There is frequent traffic on this path, which has compacted the soil beneath.

Treatment: Thankfully, trees can seal off wounds by compartmentally growing new rings of growth over the lesions. This takes time and several cultural measures need to be practiced in order to manage this disease.

A balance of moisture is necessary. Too much or little moisture plays a significant role with this disease.  Birch trees like moist, well drained soils. Where birch trees grow in drought laden areas, the cankers are more common.  However, if provided with adequate soaking and proper drainage of the root zone during dry periods, the trees can overcome the disease.  In drought periods, soak the area to insure moisture penetrats down to at least 6 inches below the soil surface.

Aeration of the soil around the tree's drip-line will help moisture penetrate down to deeper roots. Alleviate soil compaction by aerating the soil. Take a gardeners fork and poke holes around the drip line of the tree, after a good rain fall.   Over time, this provides more drainage, avoiding puddles forming too close to the base of the tree.   In addition, provide several inches of composted bark mulch or a ground cover around the tree's drip-line. This prevents water from evaporating during the heat of the summer.

Avoid any heavy walking traffic after aeration and avoid wounding of the trunk or branches.

Following these cultural practices, will help the tree to seal itself and prevent further cankers from developing.

Winter Care for Perennial Planter

Ok, my perennial planter is looking rather sad. October's cooler nights and shorter days have taken its toll already. It's time to put my planter to "bed".

Depending upon where you live (zonally), there are ways of winterizing your perennial containers. Folks that have winters in zone's higher than 6 (7,8,9) - you are blessed. Those of us that hover over the mid 5 zonal range or lower (4,3,2), our winters are generally too tough to overwinter perennials in containers.

With my perennial planters, I have a few choices here near the Greater Toronto Area. Depending how close you are to Lake Ontario, (our 5b, 6a zonal situation) and how a severe or mild winter we will have - the overwintering results will vary.

One thing to make sure first before trying to overwinter any pot outdoors is to make sure it's a winter tolerant pot/container. Terra-cotta, some concrete and porous materials will bust from frost expansion. 

To Overwinter:

1.  Place your containers on a south facing brick wall and line them up close to each other. This helps to insulate them and allows for a solid freeze when they are touching each other. The brick wall will radiate heat and keep them slightly warmer than a cold corner. Be sure to keep them well watered.

2. Place your perennial filled containers in the garage. I have placed mine on the side of the garage which butts up against the house. This is the warmest wall and the most safe for overwintering. I usually raise them off the floor with upside down buckets or rubbermaid containers. This just keeps them off of the cold floor and gives them a chance to be well drained before going dormant. I don't water them as often. Only when they are bone dry. Reason: they can rot otherwise.

3. Group several containers together. Water these containers if they remain outside. Most containers freeze and thaw several times before winter arrives. This causes whatever plants are left to desiccate and also the soil left to dry out. I usually soak my containers well before switching the outside water off completely.  I also in a pinch, take snow (without salt) and heap it over my containers when I see they are dry.

4. This is my method this year: I dissemble the perennials and plant them back in the garden to overwinter. I usually do this in late September for sensitive perennials, like some astilbe's. This just prevents certain loss if you are unsure. Come spring you can transplant them back in your pot, knowing they have overwintered well in your garden beds.

Here's how:

Here, I just cut back all the bulky, dry stems from the Rudbeckia and Astilbe. This makes it easier to seperate.

I made 3 sharp cuts into the pot with my trowel and this Astilbe popped out with ease.

These are the 4 perennials I wish to overwinter in my garden. Rudbeckia fulgida 'Goldstrum', Hosta 'Hideout', Hosta sieboldii and Astilbe chin. 'Visions in Pink'.

 The finished container:

 I plan on adding a pumpkin in the back and some gourds in the front, but it's still too early. I transplanted the Dusty Miller and Victoria Blue Salvia (making sure I had enough roots and soil so they would move well) and placed them in the back, while planting two Kale I had growing in my backyard from seed in the foreground.  At least this will carry some more colour until we get some major frosts - until I make an Outdoor Winter Decoration.

The 4 perennials, I tucked back into areas of my backyard and watered them well. They will pop back up in spring to either be part of my perennial planter again, or moved to their new home elsewhere.

One sure perennial that seems to winter over, no matter how severe the winter - is my Lamium. They are tough as nails. I will leave both types of Lamium in my container and I am sure I will see their return in the spring again.

Until then....

Autumn Perennial Divisions

Most folks know that spring is the optimum time to divide perennials, but some don't realize there are some perennials that benefit from autumn divisions.

Such as: 

On this peony, it's stems and leaves were covered in powdery mildew. Time to be moved to a sunnier, dryer location.

Perennials will give warnings to let you know that they would like to be divided.

Some signs to watch for:

• flowers get smaller, or reduced flowering

• sometimes the growth in the center of the plant dies out, leaving a weakened hole in the middle with all the growth around the edges

• plant loses vigor or leaves become yellow, browning in mid season

• plant starts to flop or open up needing staking

• may have outgrown its area

The trick is timing.  Waiting until shorter days and cooler night time temperatures are key. The month of September is ideal in Southern Ontario. These perennials need at least 4-5 weeks  to establish roots - in weather unhampered by heavy frosts.

Dividing Hosta's and...

 and daylilies can be done in a pinch this time of year. Unlike the peony and iris, they can be easily divided and replanted.

Easy to chop portion of iris out with sharp spade

Place rhizome clump on grass; divide further if you like. It's easier to section off on the grass.

Iris and Peonies have fleshy roots. Iris don't want to be planted too deeply.  Once uprooted, divide the sections and cut out any dead or rotting bits that may compromise the plants.

When you transplant after dividing, cut back the foliage to about 8 inches for iris and for peony, to the lowest leaf node. This prevents further die-back (decay) reaching the roots and it evens out the above ground growth with the below the earth growth. It helps establish roots - setting well before winter arrives.

Cut back iris leaves to about 8 inches; remove any brown, damaged leaves and any damaged rhizomes as well.

Peony roots have carrot thick root segments that meander all about. Dig deeply to remove as many roots as possible. Keep intact as many as you can.

Here I divided the peony in two. Leaving only 1 leaf segment at the top.

You may have broken roots that easily snap - not to worry. Look for a root node - the white fleshy shoot to the right of my thumb. Try not to damage them. They are like an eye on a potato; this is what you're after when dividing.

I've had peony come back with smaller roots that have been broken off - smaller than what you see above. However, they take AGES to flower when this happens

. So it's best to make sure you have thick and as many roots unbroken as you can.

Be sure to keep iris shallow when planting. Some rhizomes should be visible from the soil.

Peony are tricky. Make sure they are not planted too deep. Flowering is hampered when the peony are planted too deep. Just make sure the top of the roots are no more than an inch below the soil level.

Plant Profile: Datura inoxia "Downy Thorn Apple"

Every time I see one of these flowers unfurl, I think it's a miracle. From bud to full flower, it amazes me.

From this sized bud....seeing its progression makes me see creation at its best. It's such a beauty.
Purple tinged, fussy stems. Love it!

Great contrast against yellow foliage

This one self seeded from a neighbouring house down the street.  One day we saw it poking out from behind some shrubs. Isn't that great?!

Related to the Brugmansia x candida (Angel's Trumpet), the Datura inoxia grows about 3 feet tall, acting more like a ground cover. Benefits from having some sort of support if you want the plant to stay tall.

Even in the drought of this past summer, this Datura has managed to flourish with little effort on our behalf.

Here is its fruit, and why it's been given the name Downy Thorn Apple. 
A pod full of black/brown seeds for next year.

Warning: Pleased be advised that this plant is very toxic - all parts of the plant when ingested can: as per  the 'Canadian Poisonous Plants Information System' website info.