Chrysanthemum Show - Centennial Greenhouse Conservatory

There is nothing that really excites me about autumn transitioning into winter. It's usually a dull, stormy time of season - when trees strip bare of leaves and I dreadingly pull out long-johns from my dresser.  However, late October brings around the annual late autumn Chrysanthemum Show at Centennial Greenhouse and Conservatory. A little oasis, tucked in in the heart of Etobicoke (Toronto).

Here, I am fortunate to witness the painstaking work and effort put into growing these fantastic Japanese Chrysanthemums from cuttings and seed. Credit goes to: Stanley Roszak who grew the chrysanthemums; Donna and Mertyl who helped with the display. They all work as growers at Centennial Greenhouses and are colleagues of mine. They deserve much praise for their efforts. Well done!  It looks amazing!

A little cute fella, welcoming you to the show. :)

This one is by far my favourite. Spanning 6 inches across.

Not completely unfurled yet...it was at least the size of a dinner plate!

Wish my camera would of captured this better. 3 concentric hearts are joined together. Stan designed this himself. Wonderful!

 
The show runs from October 27, 2012 - November 25, 2012! Please go and see the flowers for yourself!

(Located: Off Rathburn, 151 Elmcrest Road. Open free to the Public)

Here is web information pertaining to other events and what grows under glass at Centennial Greenhouse.

Euonymus Crown Gall - Agrobacterium tumefaciens

Many a time, I come across crown gall on Euonymus. Never, have I seen it this large. Galls can form on several plant hosts. A gall is a plant tissue growth or "tumor" caused by a bacterium infection. Here, it's been cut away from the parent plant in order to take a clear photo of its size. The parent plant: Euonymus fortunei "Sarcoxie".

The cause of this gall is a bacterium known as: Agrobacterium tumefaciens. Being soil-borne it enters the plant through wounds in the bark.  I find the areas where galls occur most tend to be overlapping and crossed over stems that crack from sheer weight of heavy growth or over-crowded growth. This bacteria is unusual in that it transfers part of its genetic material to the plant upon infection. It's quite complicated, but an absolutely fascinating process in forming the gall. The bacterium induces tumor like genetic material into the host plant, the plant then responds growing this form of tissue (gall) as a response to the genetic material invading the host.  A type of plant hormone is produced when the host plant is infected by Agrobacterium tumefaciens. These "hormones" cause rapid cell division and distort stems or root tissue. Where the gall situates itself is where obvious trauma or wounds have appeared on the host plant prior to infection. These galls can range in size of a small nut to the one depicted in this blog post! So amazing, eh?

This one is about the size of a small cantaloupe, measuring about 16cm in diameter. 

Galls don't kill off the host plant. But they do interfere and inhibit normal plant processes. Vascular flow; (sap) water and nutrient transport is inhibited where galls form. This can weaken the overall health of the plant, especially if there is more than one gall on the host plant. Galls are usually situated on stems or trunk at the crown - base of the plant, closest to roots.


Control:

Because this bacterium is soil-borne, the main element of control is removing the gall and sanitizing secateurs after cuttings - where gall removal took place. I recommend cutting gall formed branches back to the main stem if possible. You want the wounds you inflict from cutting the infected area to be made well above the crown of the plant - avoiding close proximity to the soil. If you have wounds from removing stems close to the soil level, reinfection of the bacterium seems obvious to me. Yet, sometimes this is unavoidable. I try to follow the branching network where the gall is attached, to an area well above the crown. If the gall is on the upper portion of the plant, cut the stem at least 10-12 inches below where the gall was attached.

Please disinfect your pruners (secateurs) in a (1/10 ratio) solution (of bleach to water) after each cut. This prevents you from spreading the bacterium around to other hosts.

After gall removal, help reinvigorate your plant, by adding well rotted compost around the crown. Thin out over-crowded areas with routine pruning. Irrigate during drought periods and give a little extra TLC to bring the host plant back to health.

The Best Plants for 30 Tough Sites

Photo from: http://www.extension.umn.edu/distribution/horticulture/dg8464.html

 Every once in a while, I come across a book that is a true resource and "keeper".  The University of Minnesota (Edited by Mary Meyer, Deb Brown and Mike Zins, Extension Horticulturists, University of Minnesota) have drafted a fantastic book called The Best Plants for 30 Tough Sites; outlining several plants for tough situations in the garden.

I have not seen this book first hand, apart from the access available on the web.(Chapters are available in PDF format here). I plan to order one straight away.

As stated on their site, these are some of the topics listed:

Inside you will find…

• What can I plant under a black walnut?
• What will grow in alkaline soil?
• What is a good small tree for a boulevard?
• What tree is good for my compacted soil?
• What will grow in dry shade, under trees?

Just thought I would pass along its comprehensive content and give them a shout out - "well done!" Thanks University of Minnesota and the Master Gardeners!

Perennial Late Bloomers

Aside from the ordinary Chrysanthemum and Sedum - here are a few of my favourite perennial "late bloomers" that give flower in the midst of late autumn - tolerating light frosts and cooler day-time temperatures.

Eupatorium rugosum "Chocolate"

Eupatorium rugosum "Chocolate" (Chocolate Boneset Joe Pie Weed) found here in my garden - is one of my fav's. Its white flowers just brighten my shaded fence-line. Growing in a fair amount of shade, it's "chocolate" foliage is more bronze than burgundy - it's hard not to notice its lovely white wispy flowers contrasting against deep bronze leaves when most perennials are starting to go dormant.

Nipponanthemum nipponicum

Nipponanthemum nipponicum (Nippon Daisy) rounds the autumn off with an extraordinary daisy display. Its dense foliage and habit acts much like a shrub. Standing 3 to 4 feet in height, it commands attention. Foliage is sturdy, and evergreen in a sense - tolerating several frosts before it begins to wilt. In the winter, its foliage turns a bronze-brown and is considered an evergreen in warmer zonal areas. Flowers have a 3-4 inch span. Buds are sometimes an inch in diameter.

Tricyrtus hirta

 

 

Tricyrtus hirta (Toad Lily): part of the Lily family, but resembling an orchid, the Toad Lily's step ladder leaves and stems stay unnoticed until late September, when flower buds emerge. Standing near 3 feet when about to bloom, it's a great addition to the perennial border.

Anemone hupehensis var. japonica

Anemone hupehensis var. japonica (Japanese Anemone) This has to be my ultimate favourite. It's been in flower since late August and keeps going. Holding its flower stems above deep green, mounding foliage. Great as a cut flower. I love how it hints of white snowy days coming down the pike. Love, love, love!